Installing risers on open stairs with OSB-3, by Sander

Description by Sander

Stairs to the attic closed, prepared for upholstery.

How I made this project

Thick OSB 3 panels used. With long 3 OSB gold galvanized screws vertically through stair steps in the top edge of the riser, and 3 screws horizontally through the bottom edge of the riser and through the step.

1. Anti-slip strips removed.
2. Slots filled with anti-slip strips (preferably use no filler but real wood filler).
3. Plates fitted and sawn. Unfortunately with a jigsaw, preferably with a circular saw table.
4. 10 cm from the sides of the risers, one screw on both sides, plus one slightly screwed in exactly in the middle (for horizontal mounting on the back of the step). Since it is difficult to work under stairs, do not screw in screws until they are in the air.
5. Vertically mounted on top of stairs. First pre-drill very accurately perpendicular to the step. Check whether you are not wrong. Use a tape measure under the upper stair step up to the riser, and exact thickness of the plate. Please note, perpendicular drilling is possible with a drilling template, but the steps themselves are not completely flat and level due to operation. In practice it worked, but work very carefully.
6. Seal large seams. Due to operation and forces, use suitable sealant such as glazing sealant. Please note: OSB panels are printed on one side. In this project the stairs were upholstered so I could continue with drilling, sealing, etc.

Dimensions of my DIY project

The sizes differ per step. Pitfall: don't use just any laser rangefinder, some are inaccurate at short distances such as the length of a riser! This meant I had to cut all the risers myself. With thick plates, keep in mind that if the step is not perpendicular to the sidewalls of the stairs (especially in bends), a seam will form and the thick plate will no longer fit properly.